Remembering Pola and Marbat in Nagpur

                                                                      || श्री ||
Imagine one morning you wake up, run through daily morning rituals and rush to office. Thats pretty much like everyday, right? Now imagine this morning is one of the few special days in a year, a festival, which while you were growing up was celebrated with fervor and zeal. I know, many who have changed their hometown will identify with this situation; Today its my turn. 

Its 'Tanha Pola' (तान्हा पोळा) - Pola for the little ones today! I spent the first 10 years of my life in Nagpur and Anyone who has spent this part of year in the old part of the city would want to be there again to attend the Carnival of 'Marbat' and 'Bail Pola'. 
Bail Pola, Tanha Pola, Marbat...Confused? My mistake. Its difficult to talk things that make sense to others when you're hit by nostalgia. Its mostly like muffled mumble of a drunk. Heres a sober account. 

Pola (पोळा) or Bail Pola is a festival celebrated in the Indian states of Chattisgarh and Maharashtra (Particularly Vidarbha region). It is a day celebrated by Farmers to show their gratitude and respect towards bullocks and Oxen for their  labour in the farms. The Oxen are given bath, rest, fed well and are decorated with bright colours; after which they are taken out in a procession around the city. 

As a kid, I would stand in the roadside balcony with my cousins and friends and enjoy the colourful procession.

The Next day is celebrated as 'Tanha Pola', when kids dress up and take their little toy (wooden) bullock carts door to door, receiving sweets and money - kinda like Halloween trick or treat, minus the scary costumes.   

Photograph Source: The Tribes and Castes of the Central Provinces of India: pt II,
by Robert Vane Russell, 1916.

Just when I was reminiscing my Childhood memories, it struck me that during one of my trips last year to interiors of Maharshtra, just around Pola, I had bought a pair of coulourful bulls made of mud. Also, I found these terracotta bulls and toys from Chattisgarh in my collection.

Now comes the 3rd and most amazing part of Pola celebrations which is unique to Nagpur - Marbat! Marbat is one of the most imortant festivals of Nagpur.

Huge effigies of 'Marbat' (Female figures) and 'Badgya'(Male figures) are taken out in procession around the city with music and cries of "IdaPida-rograi gheun ja ge Marbat" (इडापीड़ा-रोगराई, घेउन जा गे मारबत !)

which translates as "take away the diseases, pains and sufferings, Marbat!"

People here believe that these Marbats will take the negativities from their lives away with them. After the procession is over, the effigies are taken out of the city and burnt. 

The tradition of Marbat procession is about 130 years old now.

Marbat are of two types - Kali (Black) Marbat and Pivli (yellow) Marbat.

These Matbat have their roots in history of Nagpur and Hindu Mythology. 

It is said that the Pivli marbat represents Princess Bakabai of Bonsle dynasty that ruled Nagpur; who during the uprising of 1857 instead of fighting the British, against her Family's wish, joined them. The Locals, enraged, took out procession with her effigy as a sign of protest. Since then, the tradition continues. 'Badgya' initially were effigies representing  the British and their atrocities. Today as spoofs, they are used as a tool to bring out the evils in the society. 

The Kali Marbat has its root in Hindu Mythology, predates Pivli Marbat and seems to be the original Marbat. The original form of Kali Marbat was tiny and is said to represent Pootna - a character from Mahabharat, who was sent by Kansa to kill infant Krishna but herself gets killed by the child. Since its life ended at the hands of the Lord himself, she attains Moksh - freedom form the cycle of life and death. In past, people used to leave their house with tiny marbat idols early at dawn, stoking it all the way with Mahua stalks. Just like Ganeshotsav After Marbat's transformation to a social event, it is celebrated on a much grander scale.

The Festival of Pola is the perfect time to have a peek into the rich cultural life and heritage of Nagpur. If you are ever in Nagpur around this time, make sure to visit the old part of the city.